Monday, February 05, 2007

Whitetails Will Eat Almost Anything

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My 1,000 acres covers a bunch of ground in Osceola County, but it’s small when compared with some Texas ranches that cover several townships.

Even at that, feeding whitetail deer on a year ‘round basis costs a bunch of money. The more crops I can grow, the less it costs to feed the animals but I can’t afford enough food to feed all of the deer. That means that a bunch of feed has to be grown.

One might consider my operation as just one more large food plot. I’ve planted all kinds of crops including alfalfa, corn, Imperial Whitetail Clover, beans, corn, rape, rye, rye grass and winter wheat.

Corn is the major food that is grown here, and every year in October we try to get as much of the corn harvested before the rains come. Some years the fields get so muddy that it’s impossible to harvest the corn, and we wind up buying tons from other people. Sure, the deer will move through the mud and water to get to the standing corn but it’s a more efficient system to take the corn off and place it where needed.

We always put up as much second-cutting hay as possible, and it is high in protein and the deer love it during the winter months. One might wonder just where I’m going with this.

Deer need three things in life: food, water and abundant cover. My land has all of the above. Several ponds are scattered across my acreage, and the ponds are stocked with bass, bluegills and trout. A small stream flows in from a big beaver pond on adjoining property, and the creek and ponds solve any need for water.

My land is a generous mix of alder runs, cedar swamps, pines and an assortment of hardwood trees. I wish we had oaks for acorns, but they are missing from my land. There are huckleberry marshes, open fields, rolling hills, swamps, sumac clumps and nearly impenetrable wet plands.

Ranch deer have an abundance of thick cover. Much of it is considered good thermal cover for really harsh weather, and the deer have been utilizing the heavy cover during the current cold snap.

The third requirement is food. Deer have a catholic appetite, and will eat almost anything that grows. They wander through the woods nibbling on available browse of choice, and that natura food is subsidized by grain feedings of corn and other truck crops. Hay and corn and commercial deer foods are used during winter months.

If I could ask for other food sources it would be to have scattered oaks on the property. During good mast-bearing years, acorns provide deer with another wonderful source of nature food. The other alternative would be to plant a number of fruit trees.

Hunters who would like to duplicate my program on their land would be wise to make some food plots to augment a deer’s natural browse. Water is important to deer, and in many cases moisture from dew-damped browse sources provide an adequate amount of water.

It pays to mix up food sources. People who plant just clover are giving the deer some nutritious food. But it’s easy for deer to enter a field planted with clover, rape, chicory and other foods, and eat the crop down to nothing. A guy I know plants two or three acres to beans, and once they start to grow, the deer eat the beans down to the ground before shifting over to another food source. Once the beans start to grow again, the deer return.

A well-balanced diet of highly nutritious planted foods, the right mix of thin and thick cover, and a nearby source of water takes care of most of a deer’s needs. Should the local deer herd grow too large, and contain too many does, much of your efforts will be in vain.

To many deer in too small of an area causes stress. That, in turn, will cause damage to nearby food sources, and the deer can and will eat themselves out of a place to live.

Managing deer isn’t easy. If it were, the DNR wouldn’t have people mad at them all the time. Holding a deer population at a one buck-one-doe level means serious management, and that means taking excess does and letting the young bucks grow.

It’s much easier in theory than in practice.—The Whitetail Wizard

Posted by wizard on 02/05 at 03:34 PM
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Don’t Trick Out My Bow

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Bows are are such a personal choice for hunters and target archers, and the choice is as important as the color of their new car, the style of toothbrush they use their choice of politics and religion..

There are a few things in life that one doesn’t do. Never insult another man’s wife, spit into the wind, don’t criticize another person’s bird dog or child, don’t try to pull the mask off the ol’ Lone Ranger, or tell another person what they should put on their bow.

All I can do on this personal weblog is tell you what I do. I’m not here to influence your judgment tell you what is right or wrong. All I can do is lay out the three basic scenarios.

The first is to use a bare bow, no sights or other equipment, and learn to shoot instinctively.

The middle-of-the-road approach is a bare bow with a quiver attachment, a Game Tracker string tracking device and a red-dot sight or some form of sight pins. My personal preference is for a clean bow. The fewer gadgets mean the fewer things that can go wrong.

There is a small side issue for bows. Me and many of my friends choose to remove the arrow quiver from the bow while hunting. A quiver filled with arrows with feathers or vanes is simply a problem waiting to happen. Too many shot opportunities are missed when a hunter tries to swing his bow to aim and shoot, and the arrows sticking out of the bow quiver hang up in personal clothing or a tree limb.

That again, is a matter of choice. For me, the quiver comes off, and is placed out of the way. It can help getting on target faster.

My bow, other than the obligatory arrow rest, has a red-dot sight and the Game tracker canister. The bow is clean and responsive.

On the other hand, for them who like such things, a tricked-out bow can be a thing of beauty or a mess. Sights are a wonderful thing, and hunters choose what they are comfortable with. There are seemingly hundreds of bow sights on the market.

Some have three, four or five different pins. All pins are stacked one on top of another like cord wood. The major problem with sight pins is remembering the yardage distances of each one under the pressure of an impending shot at a great buck.

Let’s see now. The top pin is 20 yards, the next one down is 25 yards, and the third down is 30 yards. The next two are for 40 and 50 yards. Right, right? It’s easy to forget, and use the bottom pin for wrong distance, and miss the animal completely.

Before I led the red-dot sight industry into the 20th and 21st centuries, I used a single pin. It was set to be dead-on at 25 yards. If the deer was at 30 yards, the pin was held just above the heart-lung area. A hold level with the top of the back would insure a hit out to 45 or 50 yards.

It became less confusing for me to use a single pin. And frankly, using a red-dot sight is very similar to shooting with one pin. Gap the deer by holding a bit higher when the animal is out at a certain distance.

Many bows I see have a peep sight. The problem is they must be installed correctly or when the bow is back at full draw, the peep sight isn’t lined up with the eye. A peep makes it a bit more difficult to use when the shadows in the woods get long, and hunters are straining to see an exact aiming point. This can be solved somewhat by buying a peep with a larger aperture, but I found them to difficult to use when shooting light and legal shooting time is just seconds away.

There are other things used to trick out a bow: stabilizers, a flexible finger that holds the arrow shaft on the rest but releases its hold when the bow is drawn, lighted sight pins, fiber optic sight pins and other paraphernalia.

Someone once told me about the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid, and it must have sunk in years ago. A simple bow, properly sighted in, and your choice of pin or red-dot, and that what works best for me. - The Whitetail Wizard

Posted by wizard on 02/05 at 12:07 PM
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